Shopping & Eating in Miami's "Danger Zone": Allapattah Deals That Beat the Malls

There’s Aventura Mall. There’s Dadeland Mall. There’s even Bal Harbour. But for many everyday Miamians, the real deals happen in neighborhood stores—gritty, no-frills spots that malls can’t touch for bargains. For visitors, it’s a chance to experience authentic local character, far from the polished tourist traps.

When my girlfriend first told me about shopping in Allapattah, I thought she was nuts. “Isn’t that a bad neighborhood?” I asked.“Dude,” she replied, “it’s some of the best bargain shopping in town.”

Most Miamians never set foot in Allapattah unless they live or work there. It’s a working-class, largely Hispanic area just north of the Miami River and Jackson Memorial medical complex, west of I-95. Hardcore Miami—nothing like the glitzy upper-crust neighborhoods. But if you’re up for a little adventure, the rewards are real.

One morning, my two Cuban-American friends and I drove over the river to check out “la veinte y la veinte” (Northwest 20th Street and 20th Avenue—hence the nickname). The shopping district stretches roughly from 17th to 27th Avenue, with the densest concentration between 22nd and 17th.

The heart of the action is Valsan Center, a sprawling block-long cluster of stores at that famous “twenty and twenty” corner. Think department store, but each “department” has its own storefront. It feels like a glorified dollar store (or, back in the day, a dime store—I’m dating myself), full of kitsch and low-end goods. But if you look past the cheese, the deals are legit. It’s a step above a flea market and has the lively, chaotic energy of a bazaar.

Bargains and a Peek into Cuban Culture

Valsan sells everything: women’s shoes, kitchen gadgets, kids’ toys, you name it. You can even pick up statuettes of Santa Bárbara or San Lázaro—two saints hugely popular among Catholic Cubans—for your living room altar. If you’ve never been inside a traditional old-school Miami Cuban home, this is a taste: colorful, devotional décor, minus the plastic-covered sofa.

We thought some items (like wine glasses) were cheaper at IKEA, but for holiday decorations? Valsan’s home store would’ve been unbeatable. (Note to self: go back next Christmas.)

The saints have already come marching in at Valsan. Stock up on Catholic saint refrigerator magnets here—flip San Antonio upside down, and legend says he’ll help spinsters find husbands.

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My favorite spot was the Fantasía (fashion accessories) store—a virtual bazaar of costume jewelry, all priced dirt cheap (as it should be). Hair clips with feathers and flowers, wigs, stockings, scarves, even belly-dancing skirts with fake coins dangling. You can grab first-communion veils and party favors too.

Next up was Valsan Modas, a clothing store across the street. In a predominantly Hispanic community, I was surprised to find pervasive curve-enhancing fashions: all the mannequins had bubble butts; jeans claimed to “lift” the booty; and padded underwear, as well as booty-enhancing girdles, were up for grabs—no pun intended. “I thought all Cuban women had big asses,” I pondered out loud. “You’d be surprised,” my friend replied. “Some of us are really skinny and don’t feel curvy enough.”

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Across the street at Valsan Modas (fashion), I was surprised by the curve-enhancing obsession in a Hispanic area: every mannequin had a bubble butt, jeans promised to “lift” your booty, and padded underwear/booty-enhancing girdles were everywhere. “I thought all Cuban women had big asses,” I said out loud. “You’d be surprised,” my friend replied. “Some of us are really skinny and don’t feel curvy enough.”

Modas means “fashion.” Miami is definitely an ass town—every mannequin had a bubble butt. In South Beach, mannequins tend to have double-D cups but look like pre-pubescent boys from the waist down.

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Don’t worry if you have a flat ass and crave those coveted curves—this undergarment will fix it for you.

Bling everywhere! It may not be Tiffany’s, but it won’t break the bank.

Beach-friendly fashion—wraps, strappy dresses—ranged from $6 to $29.99. Bling bras? Move over, Victoria’s Secret million-dollar diamond bra—you can get sparkle here too.

An eight-pack of bras for only $12 at Valsan Modas. Sure, it may not be La Perla quality, but you can’t beat that for underthings.

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Surrounding Valsan are other gems: pawn shops, a hat store (I snagged a $4 Rastafarian-inspired knitted cap), big-and-tall clothing, fancy debutante gowns, lingerie, and clubwear. If you’re on a budget and need club outfits, you can probably get away with $100 or less head-to-toe: shoes, accessories, full look. And honestly? Nobody’s checking labels in the club bathroom.

The 4 Seasons Collection (around the corner) felt a bit more “upscale” with men’s and women’s clothes, plus iron-on bling for customizing.

The store (next to Valsan) had clubby dresses and cool outfits. Slim pickings for plus sizes, which surprised me.

Bargains everywhere! Including fake Bebe shirts. Lots of boy shorts and the kind of pajamas a Cuban grandma might wear.

Debutante-style gowns for quinceañeras (the Cuban sweet sixteen) ranged $250–$350. Other fancy party dresses were available across from Valsan.

The most fascinating store was Santorales, Miami’s go-to for Santería wardrobe and accessories. It’s worth popping in just to see ceremonial outfits. Four color themes represent different deities—my favorite was blue for Yemayá, goddess of the ocean.

Initiation into Santería involves purification and deep devotion. The accessories are elaborate.

After browsing, we circled back to Valsan Zapatos (shoes), where my friend scored cute cloth-lined pumps for $19.99. She wore them to the New World Symphony that night and got compliments. “I secretly gleamed with pride,” she said, “knowing how little they cost.” She went back for another pair in a different color.

We only cared about girly shoes, but Valsan has men’s and kids’ footwear too.

A Taste of Local Flavor

Three hours of shopping left us starving. A quick five-minute drive brought us to Papo Llega y Pon (“Big Daddy, come and take a seat” or “Hey buddy, come hang out”). From the outside, it looks like a shanty—no seating. But step up to the counter for home-cooked Cuban goodness at unbeatable prices.

Here I tried one of Miami’s best-kept-secret sandwiches: pan con lechón—roast pork marinated in citrus-garlic mojo, slow-roasted to juicy perfection, piled on flaky Cuban bread with sautéed onions and optional mild hot sauce. The 12-inch sandwich was $5—half filled even this big girl’s belly. Add a soda and chicharrones (crispy pork rinds), and you’re still under $10.

If You Go

Don’t expect English in this part of town, or perfect grammar, either.

If you are looking for a sterile, homogeneous, sugarcoated experience, best stick to Miami-Dade’s malls east of I-95.  But for a deeper cultural exploration of Miami that’s way off the beaten path and never mentioned in a tourist brochure, shopping in Allapatah is an adventure.

This area of Allapatah is ground zero for Spanish. If you don’t speak it, be prepared to deal with clerks who don’t speak a lick of English.  However, pointing a finger at what you want is good enough. And don’t forget: “dollars at the register” is a universal language.

We went early on a Saturday morning, which was just perfect – not crowded at all. There are plenty of metered parking spots and some free lots attached to Valsan. Yeah, sure, I felt like I was slumming, but my friends and I felt perfectly safe here during our visit.

Valsan Center is at 2015 NW 20 Street (three other locations in Miami-Dade: 12256 SW 8 Street; 7551 West 4 Avenue in Hialeah). Call (305) 324-0102 for info.

Papo Llega y Pon is at 2928 Northwest 17 Avenue, (305) 635-0137. Order a whole loaf of Cuban bread with lechón—it’s called a flauta (“flute”) and was only $10 at the time.

Santorales Iyabo (Miami’s main Santería boutique) is around the corner at 2082 NW 21 Street. The clerk was friendly and answered questions about the religion (though she wasn’t a practitioner herself).

4 Seasons Collection (men’s club clothes and more) is at 2090 NW 21 Street, (305) 549-3080.

Allapattah isn’t sterile or sugarcoated. If you want the polished tourist experience, stick to malls east of I-95. But for a deeper, off-the-beaten-path taste of real Miami—gritty, vibrant, unfiltered—shopping here is an adventure worth taking.

Allapattah Today (2026 Update)

Allapattah has gentrified in spots since 2011—some areas feel safer and more mixed—but the core bargain district around Valsan still thrives with the same chaotic, colorful energy. Valsan and surrounding stores remain go-tos for affordable fashion, accessories, and cultural finds. Papo Llega y Pon is still slinging legendary lechón sandwiches (prices have risen modestly—expect ~$8–$12 for a full sandwich now). Santorales Iyabo continues serving the Santería community. Parking’s still metered/free lots; go early on weekends to avoid crowds. It’s still very Spanish-dominant—pointing and smiles work wonders. A fun, authentic Miami experience if you’re up for it!

Editor’s Note: Originally published February 11, 2011. Updated in 2026 with new photography; Maria de los Angeles' original writing remains unchanged.