I remember visiting Little Havana as a little girl. My family and I would watch American films with Spanish subtitles at the historic Tower Theater, then head next door for dinner at El Exquisito. By my teens, those outings felt like distant memories—the neighborhood had gained a reputation as “dangerous” and “uncool” through the 1980s and 1990s.
A steady revitalization has made Little Havana welcoming and vibrant again—even for a jaded local like me.
Last month, I rediscovered the neighborhood during Viernes Culturales (“Cultural Fridays”) with my friend Steve Roitstein, musical director and keyboardist for the Grammy-nominated Afro-Cuban funk band PALO!. Held on the last Friday of every month, Viernes Culturales transforms Calle Ocho into a lively street fair: live bands and dancers on outdoor stages, open art galleries and cigar shops, craft vendors, Domino Park buzzing late, and the air filled with grilled sausages, arepas, occasional cigars, and fresh Cuban coffee.
Our evening began at 7 p.m. in front of the iconic Art Deco Tower Theater (1508 SW 8th Street) with a free walking tour led by Miami’s premier historian, Dr. Paul George. Little Havana’s history is so rich that Dr. George divides the area and adjacent neighborhoods into eight distinct sections. “We always meet at the Tower Theater,” he explained, “but you could join eight months in a row and never hear the same stories twice.” He added, “I lead many tours, but I love this one because it’s sociable and festive.”
Last month’s focus was Shenandoah, the charming residential area just south of 8th Street between 15th and 19th Avenues. Named during the 1920s boom after Virginia’s scenic Shenandoah Valley, it rose amid pine woods and farmland. The 90-minute walk revealed architectural gems—Art Deco, Mediterranean Revival, masonry vernacular, bungalows—plus personal stories, like those of Miami’s first Jewish settler, Isidor Cohen, and prominent leader Max Orovitz. I’ve driven these streets countless times but never noticed the oolitic limestone facades (quarried locally) or the thoughtful preservation efforts.
We paused at the Bay of Pigs Museum and Library, dedicated to the 2506 Brigade’s 1961 invasion of Cuba. The poignant displays—documents, photos, maps, flags, uniforms, and memorabilia—tell the powerful story of that failed effort to overthrow Fidel Castro.
After the tour, Steve and I dove into the street fair. February’s carnival energy was electric: a lively comparsa (dancing parade) with Colombian cultural groups had crowds cheering and joining in. It wasn’t Rio or Mardi Gras, but the buzz felt just as
We ducked into Cubaocho Museum & Performing Arts Center (1465 SW 8th Street), a vibrant cultural hub blending art, history, and nightlife. It features stunning paintings of Cuba’s patron saint, La Virgen de la Caridad del Cobre, an extensive collection of pre-revolution Cuban art (1800s–1960s), a library, charming courtyard, full bar (including one made from Frank Sinatra’s historic wood), and a stage for nightly live Cuban music. Founded by historian Roberto Ramos—who rescued works nearly lost to the revolution—it houses one of the most significant private collections of Cuban art. The owner’s passionate stories make it feel like a true museum of Cuban heritage. It’s the perfect spot for a handcrafted cocktail and live rhythms.
With over a dozen galleries open, we could have explored longer—but hunger won. We ended at El Exquisito (1510 SW 8th Street), the same family-run spot from my childhood. The authentic Cuban home cooking and generous portions remain unchanged—nothing pretentious, just real comfort food.
Over dinner, Steve (a Northeast-born “gringo” who’s lived in Miami for years and draws endless inspiration from Cuban culture—I call him an honorary Cuban!) and I reflected on how much we’d learned in under two hours. Even in a familiar place, there’s always more to discover.
Start your exploration at a Viernes Culturales event and let it unfold!
For more depth, join Dr. Paul George’s longer tours through HistoryMiami Museum—check historymiami.org for Little Havana dates. His book, Little Havana (Arcadia Publishing’s Images of America series), is a great pictorial guide, available online or at the museum store.
For the ultimate immersion, enroll in his continuing education class at Miami Dade College. I’m taking it this semester and can’t recommend it enough! Weekly evening sessions suit 9-to-5 schedules—no degree required. It combines lectures and tours; contact Dr. George at (305) 237-3723.
Carry the Cuban spirit home with my friend’s band, PALO!, led by Steve Roitstein. Grammy-nominated (Best Tropical Latin Album) and Latin Grammy-nominated, they fuse traditional Cuban music with Latin jazz, funk, and “Afro-Cuban Funk.” Search them on YouTube—the energy captures Little Havana perfectly!
Little Havana thrives in 2026 as a revitalized gem. Viernes Culturales remains a beloved tradition on the last Friday, with live music, art, food, and Domino Park action. The Tower Theater is a renovated hub, the Bay of Pigs Museum offers free entry (call ahead), El Exquisito serves family classics, and Shenandoah’s homes are increasingly preserved. Dr. Paul George continues leading tours via HistoryMiami—visit historymiami.org. The neighborhood feels safer, more walkable, and full of authentic energy—ideal for everyone.
Maria’s heartfelt rediscovery captures Little Havana’s enduring magic: history, culture, and community in one colorful street.
Editor’s Note: Originally published March 27, 2009. Updated in 2026 with new photography; with Maria de los Angeles' experience preserved.
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